12 Reasons Chickens Lay Eggs on the Floor

Eggs laid on the coop floor, appropriately called “floor eggs,” easily get dirty or cracked. They are unsanitary to eat and unsuitable for hatching. Plus a cracked egg is likely to get broken, making a mess. Hens will sample the contents, creating a new problem — egg-eating chickens. Here are 12 reasons chickens lay eggs on the floor, and how to prevent it.

Nest Availability

Floor eggs are most commonly a problem with pullets just starting to lay. The proper timing of making nests available is crucial to avoiding floor eggs. Nests may have been removed, or not yet installed, while the chickens are young, to prevent them from playing or sleeping them. On our farm we block off nest openings by stapling sturdy cardboard over the fronts. Either way, when pullets reach maturity and start exploring nesting options, it’s time to make the nests available to them.

Nest Height

The nests ideally should start out close to, or directly on, the floor until most of the pullets are using them. Then elevate the nests 18 to 20 inches above the floor to discourage the chickens from scratching in them and dirtying or breaking eggs. Raising nests off the floor may involve setting them on a platform or firmly attaching them to the wall.

Pullet Training

Young chickens instinctively look for places off the floor to roost for the night. But chickens that don’t have early access to roosting perches eventually lose interest in seeking them. That also makes them less inclined to fly up to nests that are elevated, one of the many reasons chickens lay eggs on the coop floor. So in addition to starting nests low and raising them, you also need to provide perches that train hens to move from one level to another.

Nest Location

Some hens like to buddy up while laying. But most hens seek a quiet, private place in which to lay, where they won’t be bothered by normal flock activities. Installing nests in an out of the way place, such as a corner of the coop or behind a door, helps prevent distractions from the comings and goings of flock mates.

I often see warnings that nest boxes should be lower than perches, or else the chickens will sleep in the nest boxes. One of our coops (originally intended for turkeys) has nest boxes close to floor level, and we’ve always had trouble with chickens sleeping in them. In another coop some perches are lower than the nest boxes, and some higher. In that coop we rarely have a problem with chickens sleeping in the nests.

The bigger problem we’ve had is chickens wanting to perch on top of the nest boxes. We discourage that by sloping the nest roof so any chicken that lands there slides right off.

Nest Access

For nests higher than 18 inches, either provide a sloped ladder for hens to climb up, or install a perching bar in front of nest openings for hens to fly onto. For most size chickens, the rail should be about 8 inches from the nest openings.

Sometimes a hen, waiting to use her favorite nest, will perch on the roost. In doing so she’ll block the way for other hens to move down the perch looking for an empty nest. To keep the hens from giving up and laying on the floor, you may need to add a second parallel perch that lets the hens move past the obstruction. The scenario of hens blocking movement on the perch is more likely when not enough nests have been provided.

Nest Numbers

Having too few nests can result in hens either laying on the floor or trying to squeeze into an already occupied nest. In the latter case, the crowded hen may decide to leave and end up laying on the floor. Furnish at least one box per four hens. More is better, but even if you install one nest per hen, invariably hens will have certain favorites that get more use than others.

Nest Design

A layer seeks safety for herself and for her potential future offspring (her eggs). A nest that’s enclosed on top and on three sides, but open at the front, allows the hen to watch for danger from only one direction. She thus feels safe from sneak attacks at the side or rear.

Nest Size

A nest box that’s too large may not give a hen the feeling of protection. On the other hand, the box must be large enough for a hen to easily turn around (because a hen wants to face the opening while she’s in the box) and to stand (because, hey, she’ll stand up just as her egg is about to drop). A nest that’s slightly large is better than one that’s too small and cramped.

A good size for Leghorns and other lightweight layers is 12 inches wide by 14 inches high by 12 inches deep. For heavier breeds, make nests 14 inches wide by 14 inches high by 12 inches deep. For bantams, a reasonable size is 10 inches wide by 12 inches high by 10 inches deep.

Nest Padding

Given a choice, a hen prefers to lay in a bowl-shape nest, which she may create outdoors by gathering dried grass, leaves, and feathers. Thick padding therefore makes a nest box more enticing. Hens will eventually mat down or kick out the nesting material, so be prepared to occasionally add more. Nearly every chicken keeper has an opinion on what makes the best nest liner. Options that work well on our farm include wood shavings, soft straw, or shredded paper.

Buggy Nest

Among the reasons chickens lay eggs on the floor is that they anticipate being bitten by parasites lurking in the nests. Frequently cleaning out and replacing nesting material gives you an opportunity to check nests for mites and other parasites that bite and irritate laying hens. If you use nest pads beneath the nesting material, remove them during cleaning to check underneath for hidden bugs. I line each of my nest boxes with linoleum tiles, which are easy to remove so I can vacuum underneath. Occasionally a tile itself needs to be cleaned because of a broken egg or poop accident.

Nest Lighting

Hens have a strong instinct to lay in dark, protected places. If the rest of coop is brightly lit, they will be more inclined to seek the darkened nests. A nest located away from direct light suggests just such a suitably dim place. Shielding nests from bright lights, for instance by hanging flaps of fabric in the openings, is another way to provide privacy and darkness.

Nest Temperature

A poorly designed or poorly located nest can be cold and drafty, making it uncomfortable for hens to spend any time there. An example would be a nest with a bottom of hardware cloth, instead of something solid and padded.

At temperatures above 90ºF hens experience heat stress. In a warm climate or warm season, poorly ventilated nests can discourage hens from laying in them. Indeed, at 100ºF hens may stop laying altogether. Where curtains are used to darken nest sites, they may need to be removed during hot weather to improve air circulation. Open windows and a wall or ceiling fan may also be needed.

When Floor Eggs Happen

Letting eggs accumulate in the nests shows reluctant hens where to lay. But it’s not a good idea because the eggs can get soiled or broken. Instead, place fake wooden or ceramic eggs in the nests. They’ll have the same effect without the danger of breaking.

Move any pullet that appears to be laying on the floor, and remove floor eggs as soon as you find them. A hen seeing eggs on the floor may be inclined to lay there, too. On the other hand, when you regularly remove floor eggs, a hen that has been laying on the floor will more quickly catch on to idea of using nests by watching other hens.