Chicken Keeping Rules of Thumb

A rule of thumb is a general guideline that offers a starting place, but does not strictly apply in every specific circumstance. Adjustments may be necessary when a rule of thumb doesn’t exactly fit your situation. Chicken keeping rules of thumb are helpful for such things as deciding how big your coop should be, how much feed to purchase between trips to the farm store, or how long before your pullets start laying eggs. These rules of thumb fall broadly into the following categories.

Feed

Feeder space — Provide enough feeder space so at least one-third of your birds can eat at the same time. Allow each mature chicken at least 1½ inches of space around a tube feeder or 1 inch of accessible space along a trough feeder.

Feed per week — A bantam chicken eats about ½ pound of feed per week. A light breed chicken eats 1½ to 2 pounds of feed per week. A heritage breed (dual purpose) eats 2½ to 3 pounds of feed per week. A heavy breed chicken eats 3½ to 4 pounds of feed per week. A layer pullet eats 20 pounds of feed in the first 20 weeks. A Cornish-cross broiler eats 10 pounds of feed in the first 6 weeks.

Feed purchase — Buy only as much feed as you can use within 6 weeks and store it in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight to ensure it won’t go stale.

Calcium supplement — A laying hen needs 5 to 6 pounds of calcium carbonate (oyster shell, argonite, limestone, or soluble calcium grit) per year.

Water

Drinker space — Provide enough drinking stations so at least one-third of your chickens can drink at the same time. Position drinkers no farther apart than 8 yards so chickens don’t have to go far to get a drink.

Water per day — A chicken drinks twice as much as the weight of dry feed it eats each day; a chicken that eats ½ pound of feed per day therefore needs one pound (= 1 pint) of water per day.

Facilities

Coop space — Allow 2 square feet per bantam, 3 square feet per lightweight chicken, 4 square feet per heavier breed. More is always better.

Roosts — Allow at least 8 inches of perch for each chicken, 10 inches for the larger breeds.

Yard space — Allow 8 to 10 square feet per chicken.

Pasture space — Pasture only as many chickens as you can rotate in a given area without reusing the same ground within the year.

Laying hens

Eggs

Point of Lay — Depending on breed, a pullet may start laying as early as 20 weeks of age (usually breeds developed for laying), or as late as 6 months (the heavier breeds). A pullet that reaches laying age in the middle of winter generally start laying the following spring; one that reaches maturity in the fall should lay throughout the first winter.

Laying and Light — Most breeds need at least 14 hours of light exposure to lay year around.

Laying Cycle — The average laying cycle is 12 months, followed by a molt.

Nests — Provide one nest for every 4 hens in the flock. For light weight layers, make nests 12 inches wide by 14 inches high by 12 inches deep. Heavier breeds need larger nests 14 inches wide by 14 inches high by 12 inches deep. For bantams, 10 inches wide by 12 inches high by 10 inches deep.

Egg collection — Collect eggs 3 times per day to keep them from getting soiled, broken, or frozen.

Number of hens — To have enough eggs to go around, keep 2 hens per household member.

Broody Layers — The more eggs you can expect from your chosen breed, the less likely your hens are to brood; the fewer eggs you can expect from your hens, the more likely they are to brood.

Hatching — Chicken eggs take 21 days to hatch. Really small eggs may hatch a day or two early. Jumbo eggs may hatch a day late.

7 Responses

  1. Stephen says:

    I have been trusting your instructions for poultry raising for so many years (25). Thank you so much!

  2. Amanda says:

    HI Gail! Thank you for all the information. What do you suggest as a surface for the chicken’s run? We currently do builders sand. What a great site you have to include more than chickens as well!

    • Gail Damerow says:

      Building sand is an excellent choice, especially if you have a roof over the run to keep the sand dry in rainy weather. Either way, the sand should be poop-scooped as needed to keep it fresh.

  3. Cathy Copenhaver says:

    I always said rules are just guidelines to make you think (a sentiment not always appreciated by a certain former commanding officer I had back in the day).

    That said, the rules of thumb here are very much appreciated.

    I do have a question though (I originally thought of it while looking through your Chicken Health book, but this blog entry brought it back to mind).

    Specifically, what size or weight defines light, midweight, and heavy breeds?

    I have a smaller area for my birds and wanted to plan well regarding size. For many reasons I landed on the California Gray/Grey as my breed of choice as the hens are supposed to be about 4.5 pounds when mature. I think by all the rules of thumb my space estimations should work, but it would be nice to feel better about my base assumptions.

    Which brings me to my other question(s). I am fascinated by the California Gray/Grey because James Dryden is an ancestor. The historical information on them is scant to the point I’m not even exactly sure if it is Gray or Grey. I’ve read a couple references to the breed that you have written, and I am hoping you could point me in a direction to find out more about their history and development. Given they were never included as an APA breed I fear the history is being lost.

    In any case, I am having fun going through your blog posts! Thank you!

    • Gail Damerow says:

      I don’t believe I’ve ever seen a definitive chart listing weights for each group. Lightweight is a general term referring to Leghorns and other layer breeds that are relatively slender; also game breeds. Heavy breeds are generally chunky, with more meat on the bone. Midweight, as you might suspect, is between the two extremes. California Grays are considered to be lightweight, as they favor the Leghorn side of their ancestry. As for the history of the breed, I agree that information is scant. The best information I have agrees with Gray.

      • Cathy Copenhaver says:

        Thank you! The lack of decision for the spelling on my part was driving me nuts. Gray it is! The hatchery I bought them from used Grey, but also called them a mix of a Barred Rock male and a White Leghorn female, which makes little genetic sense as they are a barred breed! The best I can figure is back in the day Professor/Great Grandfather Dryden did something quite crazy and mixed the two breeds while at Oregon. He managed to produce the number one producing/competitive egg laying winning hens, called Oregons which were white as would be expected. After he retired he, and later his son, did use those two breeds for developing the highly prolific, white egg laying, barred, true breeding California Grays. I just wish I could find more definitive information. The hatchery supposedly has his direct line birds but is not a historical font of knowledge. Well, as my cousin said, ‘some families have a family tartan, we have a family feather pattern’.

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